Teliti Batik Pekalongan, Mahasiswa Unnes: Motif Gambarkan Dinamika Masyarakat

Batik pekalongan ternyata bukan sekadar jenis kain dan bahan pakaian. Batik pekalongan juga memiliki berbagai nilai filosofif yang menggambarkan keyakinan dan nilai-nilai hidup masyarakat. Namun tidak semua orang mengetahuinya.

Dasar itulah yang mendorong empat mahasiswa Unnes melakukan penelitian untuk menggali nilai filosofis batik Pekalongan. Mereka adalah Mustangin, Rini Handayani, Niken Larasati, dan Fitri Febrianti. Menurut mereka, informasi tentang nilai batik pekalongan diperlukan.

“Selain sebagai bahan pengetahuan, nilai filosofis batik bisa digunakan pemerintah dan pengusaha batik untuk mengembangkan batik sesuai nilai yang hidup di masyarakat,” kata Mustangin, mahasiswa Jurusan Akuntansi Unnes sekaligus ketua tim peneliti.

Penelitian ini berhasil mengidentifikasi bahwa batik pekalongan memiliki motif secara lebar dan dinamis. Para perajin fleksibel mengikuti perkembangan zaman. Ciri khas pesisiran ditampilkan dengan pilihan warna yang lebih cerah. Ini menggambarkan karakteristik warga pesisiran yang berani dan terbuka pada pembaruan. Berbeda dengan motif Solo dan Yogya yang berpegang pada pakem, batik pekalongan lebih berani membuat kebaruan.

Melalui penelitian ini, mereka mengungkap bahwa batik pekalongan tidak menggambarkan binatang secara utuh. Ini berkaitan dengan keykinan agama warga setempat yang meyakini penggambaran binatang tidak diperbolehkan.

“Solusinya, bagian-bagian binatang disamarkan. Ada yang sekilas tampak seperti bunga, ada yang tampak seperti kupu-kupu,” terang Rini Handayni.

Ditinjau dari ragam hias dan tata warnanya, batik Pekalongan dapat dikelompokkan menjadi tiga jenis yakni, kain batik encim yang menggambarkan ciri khas Cina, kain batik bergaya Belanda, dan kain batik pribumi.

Ketiga ragam jenis batik ini menunjukkan dialektika kebudayaan masyarakat Pekalongan dengan bangsa Timur dan Barat. Sejarah pergaulan itu turut mempengaruhi motif batik yang tercipta dan beredar.

“Sayangnya, berdasarkan penelitian yang kami lakukan, nilai filosofis batik pekalongan belum dianggap penting. Konsumen dan pengusaha cenderung menilai batik sebatas sebagai warisan budaya. Adapun nilai historis dan filosofisnya tidak dijelaskan secara detail,” katanya.

Oleh karena itu, timnya menyarankan, pemerintah segera merumuskan kebijakan agar nilai filosofis dijadikan keunggulan produk.

“Batik perlu dikembangkan sebagai benda estetis, bukan komoditas tekstil semata. Untuk menjaga nilai estetisnya tetap terjaga, perlu ada argumentasi historis dan filosofis yang menunjukkan eksistensi batik melampaui wujud fisiknya,” kata Mustangin.

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